In December 2003, Central Jail in the Nepali capital Kathmandu was everything one might expect from a prison in a developing country. Its high walls, interspersed by watchtowers topped with barbed wire, were patrolled by armed guards. The visitor’s room was a cold, dirty, rectangular cell, divided by a chest-high wall topped with a wire fence. Visitors were forced to sit on low benches. One had to crane one’s neck upwards to see the prisoners on the opposite side of the wire, their hands and feet shackled. When the room was busy, everyone shouted.