On The Trail With The Bush-Meat Hunters

The Killing Of Endangered Species In Laos

Until very recently the markets of Muang Singh, Luang Nam Tha, Phonsavan and Vang Viang were teeming with live and dead forest animals. Squirrels, civet cats, forest rats, bats, beavers, porcupine and their close relative the ‘sinhawn’ as well as an enormous variety of birds including owls and pheasants were offered from market stalls all over the country. Now, under pressure from foreign NGO’s and wildlife organizations, local authorities have banned some produce from public sale, which might offend foreigners. But the loss of rare species has barely slowed.

This story was first published in Farang Magazine

Driving South

Vientiane is drowning in a cold downpour. We’re driving south to Savannakhet. The bus is old and wasted but it’s taking a long time to die. The roof is broken, water pours through cracks in the ceiling every time the teenage driver revs the engine. Passengers, all of them Lao, all of them poor, cram in, onto tiny seats that vibrate in time with the vehicle. Baggage is loaded on and empty crates of Beer Lao are stacked up onto the leaking, unstable roof. Then we are off.

This story has been published in 'Beyond The Pancake Trench' by Orchid Press and in Farang Magazine