There's a Killer on the Beach

 

 

 

 

 

Jerry Lee Lewis at the Ko Samui Music Festival 2005

 

 

 
     
       

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A dark wind blows through the coconut palms. The air is balmy and the crowd is impatient. Fork lightning flashes across a tropical night sky. But electricity is not limited to the firmament tonight.
Jerry Lee Lewis, AKA the Killer, the last great king of Rock and Roll, the musical revolutionary, the drug-fuelled Louisiana hillbilly maniac with his pumping piano, in short, the next best thing to a deity made flesh, is scheduled to headline the second Ko Samui Music Festival.
Jerry Lee needs little introduction to anyone who’s ever listened to music, but his career and life have been so remarkable, brutal, excessive, glorious and degrading that it would be a wasted literary opportunity not to list the Killer’s most outrageous achievements here.
Born almost 70 years ago to the day of his first appearance in Thailand, Jerry Lee mastered the Boogie-Woogie piano by the age of 14. Despite attending the Southwestern Bible Institute in Texas, Jerry Lee never mastered his own demons and was thrown out of a prospective preaching career for playing Rock and Roll versions of gospel hymns in church.
It’s been steeply up and down hill ever since. Along with Elvis, Roy Obison and Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee founded the last great romantic movement of western civilization – Rock and Roll. But while Elvis got fat and went to Hollywood, while Orbison remained remote, and while Johnny Cash became C&W’s Man In Black, Jerry Lee took too many drugs, balled too many women and became ever more dangerous. Then, in 1958, Jerry Lee married his thirteen year old cousin without divorcing his previous wife. The world’s media was not amused and his career collapsed. Jerry Lee carried on playing and marrying.
The album ‘Live at the Star Club, Hamburg’, released in 1964, is text book Rock and Roll – mad, bad, fast and very, very real. If aliens came to see me and asked me about the defining Rock And Roll moment, this is what I’d play them.
Reality is nasty when it copies great art – his fourth wife died in his swimming pool and a fifth OD’ed on methadone, two of his kids died in accidents. In 1976 he shot his bass player in the chest. No, God did not tell him to do it.
I love Jerry Lee Lewis pretty much unconditionally. He was part of the moment when western culture celebrated the individual and the non-conformist. Like the Surrealists and the Beats before him, Jerry Lee made our world a more interesting, dynamic and soulful place. Jerry Lee managed to convey both the best and worst aspects of the human condition in a two minute song.
Despite being a white southerner, Jerry Lee played black music and promoted black artists. Take a look at racial divisions in Louisiana today and you’ll know what courage or insanity it must have taken back in 1956. What’s more, Jerry Lee was the most sexually charged Rock and Roll artist of the 1950s and sex, then as now, is politics, drawing battle lines across America. Jerry Lee never gave a toss about politics - like a true god king, he refers to himself in the third person in his songs. Perhaps that’s the reason why the moral majority did not manage to crush him, following the revelations about his teenage marriage.
But that was all a long time ago. Now the music business is a franchise of the military-industrial complex and the charts are peopled by manufactured boy bands and bimbos with implants in places where they’re not needed. Jerry Lee is as much a legend as a memory in our media-saturated shallow entertainment world.
Allan Sadd, the festival’s philanthropic promoter, probably doesn’t like boy bands and it’s to his credit that Jerry Lee has made it to the beach. Apparently it’s been a long flight for the frail Rock and Roll pensioner.

 
     

 

 

After suffering through musical dead beats Canned Heat (where’s the music police when you need it?), everyone is waiting for the Killer. Four old men, Mr. B.B. Cunningham, Mr. Robert Hall, Mr. Buck Hutchinson, Mr. Kenneth Lovelace (who has played guitar for the Killer for 39 years) appear on stage in dark shirts and slacks, plug in and fire up with a handful of Rock and Roll standards. They open with ‘Slipping and Sliding’, they are tight, and they are smiling as the Rock and Roll noise blows over the crowd, they love being in Thailand. The crowd, an illustrious collection of ex-pats, tourists, journalists, bar girls, government ministers and hot dog vendors, sways faster than the coconut palms.
The band grinds to a halt and Jerry Lee Lewis stalks up to the monitors.
“Hi there, first time I done a show wanting to go to sleep,” he mumbles as he sits down at the grand piano and rips into the first chords of Roll Over Beethoven. Jerry Lee, half dead from jet lag, is pounding the keys, straining a shaky, sloppy southern drawl that sounds like it’s been fermenting in the toxic wastewaters of Katrina and Rita, telling Tchaikovsky the news,.
“All right, you all having a good time?” he growls rhetorically. He knows we are. And were it not so, he wouldn’t give a shit.

A slow country honk follows, with enough chauvinism, pathos and pain to see the ghosts of Hank Williams and Robert Johnson waltz across the stage.

Don't put no headstone on my grave,
All my life I've been a motherhumpin' slave.
I want the world to know,
That I'm the stud that loved that woman so.

Half way through the song, Jerry Lee hits high gear, reflecting on mortality with the eye of a hillbilly hellcat.

Mama, mama don't you cry,
I'm gonna meet you in the by and by.
Tell papa, I'm coming home,
You know, it can't be very long.

Sweet Little Sixteen , an incredible rendition of Before the Night is Over and Johnny Be Good follow in rapid-fire succession. Between songs Jerry Lee mumbles unintelligibly about his new album. The band around him is all pinched smiles and fast licks, drawing into an ever-tightening circle around the Killer, as if they are scared he might run off. He doesn’t look like he’d get much further than the other side of the grand. Instead he launches into Chantilly Lace, shameless and carefree, “Hey baby, that’s what I like.”
He sounds dirtier than the guys in the go-go bar down the road.
Jerry Lee sings on about loss, death, the Blues, love, sin and redemption. Even the security and hot dog vendors are dancing. The devil’s music sounds across Ko Samui and holds the monsoonal rains at bay.
The Killer finishes off with Whole Lotta Shakin’ Going On and Great Balls Of Fire. He pumps the piano and rises wearily. Rock and Roll is a hard business. Younger men have bitten the dust in their hundreds. Jerry Lee stumbles round the piano, turns his back to the crowd and pulls his blazer up, exposing his old ass stuck in a pair of black jeans to the world. Without waiting for the applause, the last king of Rock and Roll has left the beach. Awesome.

 
     

Photographs by Aroon Thaewchatturat (www.onasia.com)

If you would like to read more about festivals in Thailand, check the following stories:

The Illustrated Kill Convention, Thailand 2003

The Illustrated Kill Convention Revisited! 2006

The Phuket Vegetarian Festival

The Chonburi Buffalo Race

Phi Ta Khon - Thailand's Halloween

Fat chance for the (Heineken) Fat Fest

More stories from Thailand

More photos and stories from Asia

Information on books by Tom Vater

Check out photographer Aroon Thaewchatturat's new website for images from South Asia and beyond.

Permission to reproduce any material on this site, either wholly or in part, must be obtained from the author.
Text: © Tom Vater 2001-2008; Images: © Tom Vater/Aroon Thaewchatturat 2001-2008, unless stated otherwise.